“I don’t know if it’s about February versus September, but we’ve seen a much bigger desire for brands to show up in different ways,” says Izemrane. “We have to always listen to the industry and we always have to make sure that the way we show up is not one-size-fits-all, but as flexible as we could possibly be to support the designers.” Last season, N4XT limited venues to below 34th Street, in close proximity to the West Side Highway. With more designers this season asking to show outside the preferred perimeter, however, N4XT obliged. “We’re not going to force you to show in a certain area. It’s about being flexible and allowing designers to put their creative vision and venues first, which I think is paying off,” Izemrane adds.
For any attendees hoping for an easier time navigating NYFW, you may be out of luck. But for press and buyers, at least the Google shuttle bus is back.
N4XT is carrying on initiatives from KFN, a now-disbanded organization that briefly swooped in with a multi-year plan to reinvigorate NYFW. N4XT is working with Redone and SAP on a new store experience this season, as well as continuing efforts to establish a digital commerce platform tied to fashion week, called FW. Stay tuned for February, which is when the full launch is scheduled to roll out.
Who’s buying?
Once again, the wholesale landscape since last season has shifted. Mytheresa and Net-a-Porter parent LuxExperience hit profitability and is on track for its turnaround. Newly minted Exemplar Luxury Group — or rather, newly rebranded — is hitting the ground running, ready to win back brands across its retailers (Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman). Yumi Shin, formerly of Bergdorf, is now helming Nordstrom, which continues to invest in emerging brands, alongside Bloomingdale’s, which is developing its brand mix as it capitalizes on its growth moment. Retailers, meanwhile, have made two key fashion editorial hires or promotions: Nordstrom hired former Harper’s Bazaar editor Brooke Bobb as VP, fashion director; while Neiman Marcus and Saks promoted Chloe King from editorial director to fashion director
Buyers are excited by the newness this season. Shin, EVP of global brand partnerships at Nordstrom, is most excited for the week’s opener: Zankov’s debut as artistic director at — and return to — DVF. “This season feels especially charged with energy. I’m energized by the creativity and the community of our independent designers,” she says. Shin also notes her excitement for each member of the CVFF to show — not just for Nordstrom, but because she’s a member of the selection committee.
Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer at Net-a-Porter, is keen for Khaite, which, she says, is always the pillar of NYFW (a common consensus among buyers). “I always look forward to Colleen Allen, Kallmeyer, and of course, Thom Browne who is closing NYFW this season,” she adds. Shin echoes many of these standouts, adding Altuzarra and Diotima into the mix.
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