“Watch This Space”: First Reactions to Drew Henry’s Courrèges

When guests arrived at Drew Henry’s Courrèges debut on Wednesday morning at Palais de Tokyo, they were met with a particularly pared-back set. Gone was the white box and conceptual show backdrop in the Carreau du Temple used by his predecessor, Nicolas Di Felice. “I wanted something very simple for the venue, and the focus to be on the clothes, on the casting.” Henry told Vogue ahead of the show.

The collection was extremely colorful: neon yellow, acid green, tangerine, burgundy, navy and more, a far cry from the more minimalist palette of the house’s recent years. “Diving into the archives, I was struck by how colorful this brand is,” Henry said. “There’s so much joy, playfulness, but also a strong sense of sentimentality.”

Photo: Vogue Runway

After some difficult years of creative purgatory, Courrèges — founded by André Courrèges and his wife Coqueline in 1961 — saw renewed momentum during Di Felice’s five-ish-year tenure. (The designer exited in March this year.) Di Felice brought a youthful feel to the house, re-issuing its iconic vinyl skirts and jackets, at more accessible price points to attract aspirational consumers. But, much like its competitors, Courrèges has faced headwinds amid softer demand and younger consumers pulling back spending. The brand appointed current CEO Marie LeBlanc, formerly of Victoria Beckham, in 2024 to help steer sales.

Henry has a tough gig. He has not been brought in to save the house; his predecessor was revered for his work and the distinctly sexy, futuristic minimalism that became known as the brand’s codes. While many insiders shared positive feedback, the post-show chatter painted a balanced picture: some are unsure of the new direction, feeling the departure of Di Felice.

Photo: Vogue Runway