EU-funded research is helping to transform used clothing into high-quality new products, with the aim of reducing textile waste and making recycled textiles the norm.
At the factory in Waregem, in northwestern Belgium, unique machines, accessible only to trusted staff via fingerprint recognition, process old clothing and textiles with utmost precision in secret.
Stretching over 170 meters, this machine carefully unwinds woven and knitted fibers and prepares them for reuse. These fibers are at the heart of a four-year EU-funded research initiative called tExtended to transform the future of textile recycling.
The motive is clear. According to the European Environment Agency, 7 million tonnes of textile waste is dumped into European landfills or incinerators every year.
Koen De Ruyck, general manager of PURFI Manufacturing, a pioneer in sustainable textile “rejuvenation”, pointed out that there is only one such machine in the world.
“People who visit our factory only see what goes in and what comes out,” he said. “Most of the technology operates within a black box to keep the process as secret as possible.”
UNLOCK UPCYCLE
This technology is called “soft mechanical recycling.” Rather than shredding or tearing the fabric to collect the fibers, this process loosens the material and maintains the strength and length of the fibers.
This makes a big difference. Instead of ending up in lower-end products like cleaning cloths or car insulation, high-quality fibers are turned into new clothing.
“Most recycling is actually downcycling,” says De Ruyk. “We start with something beautiful and end up with something very basic. Upcycling is currently less than 1%, and until that increases we won’t be able to reduce the total amount of waste.”
Europe-wide ambitions
The Waregem exam is just part of tExtended, which runs until November 2026. The trial brings together research and industry partners from Finland, Sweden, Belgium, France, Ireland, Latvia, Slovakia, Spain, Portugal and Switzerland.
Together, they aim to demonstrate how Europe can reduce textile waste by up to 80%. This is an audacious target, but one that reflects the huge environmental footprint of textile production and the EU’s determination to make sustainable products the norm.
Since January 2025, EU countries have developed separate collection of textile waste in accordance with EU regulations. This means you can no longer throw away your old clothes and fabrics with your other trash.
The changes aim to give clothing a second life through reuse, repair and recycling, and encourage fashion brands to design products that last longer and are easier to recycle. But for many in the textile industry, it’s still a new concept.
“Currently, there is little information about how different types of textile waste can be replaced as raw materials for textile production,” says Dr. Pirjo Heikkilä, Principal Scientist and Project Manager at the VTT Technology Research Center in Finland, which coordinates tExtended.
Maintaining the distribution of textile products
The tExtended team is working on a blueprint for producers detailing how to separate and process different types of textile waste, and how best to reuse it. Their work directly supports the EU Strategy on Sustainable and Circular Textiles, which aims to reduce overproduction, encourage repair and reuse, and make recycling a mainstream option.
For Heikkila, who has been researching textiles for 25 years, this project also changed her personal behavior.
“I’m more thoughtful about what I buy now. I choose second-hand clothes, and if I buy new, I look at where and how it was made,” she said. “We repair things and figure out how to take over when we no longer need them.”
She stressed that while consumers have a role to play, the main responsibility for creating more sustainable products lies with industry.
From disposal to wear
PURFI testing tests recycled fibers to check their quality and performance before spinning them into yarn for clothing and bed linen.
Trial operations have already begun, and recycled denim is produced by equally dividing production waste and used clothing. The tExtended team’s long-term goal is to create denim made exclusively from pure recycled cotton.
In Portugal, major towel producer JF Almeida is experimenting with recycled materials in its spinning mills, seeking the best combination of recycled and virgin fibers.
The company already has experience recycling waste textiles from its own factories and is seizing the opportunity to further improve its recycling capabilities with support from international partners.
“Sustainability is part of our DNA,” says Liliana Miranda from JF Almeida’s Commercial Department.
“Every day, our customers ask us questions about recycled products. For us, this project is an opportunity to create new products with less impact on the planet and open up new markets.”
global leader
By reducing incineration and increasing recycling, the tExtended team aims to reduce Europe’s dependence on imported raw materials and increase the global competitiveness of the textile sector.
“Europe has the opportunity to become a world leader in sustainable, high-quality textile products,” Heikkila said.
Advances in initiatives like tExtended demonstrate how innovation and collaboration can turn waste into value, providing a blueprint for textile recycling far beyond Europe.
The research for this article was funded by the EU’s Horizon Programme. The views of the interviewees do not necessarily reflect the views of the European Commission.
This article was originally published in Horizon, EU Research and Innovation Magazine.
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